Harar

Harar is Ethiopia's most prominent Muslim city, housing within its walls no fewer than 90 mosques. Founded in the twelfth-century as a Christian city, Harar was conquered by the Muslim invaders who swept across much of Ethiopia in the 16th century. They dramatically re-shaped the city, building the current wall and replacing much of the existing Christian structures with their own. To this day the city has a distinctly Muslim character (though much of the population remains Christian), but the influence of its changing rulers and tumultuous past is visible in the varied styles of architecture.

Harar lacks the ancient monuments of Axum and the medieval splendour of Gondar, but it nevertheless offers much of interest. The former house of Haile Selassie, at present used by an Ethiopian healer, can be visited. Equally interesting is the home of Rimbaud, who settled in Harar in the late nineteenth-century. The original Harari houses are also well-known for their beautiful paintings and carvings. All around the walled city are markets selling baskets, spices and the popular chewing herb, chat.

A long standing tradition of feeding meat to hyenas one night a year developed in the 1960s into a nightly feeding show for the benefit of tourists.

In and around Harar, Ethiopia
The major attractions of Harar are its colourful people and unique atmosphere. Formerly a major trading centre, Harar has a busy, lively atmosphere and it's a pleasure to walk around the city, look at the people and bargain at the smugglers' market.

Harar is not normally visited on standard tours of Ethiopia's Historic Route, but if you have the time it's well worth your while to spend a night or, better yet, two nights here. The city has few of the major historic attractions of Axum or Gondar, but its vibrant market centre and charming guesthouses make it one of Ethiopia's most welcoming cities. Those on longer itineraries can extend their time in the region to also include neighbouring Dire Dawa - home to a lively market and fascinating railway museum - and the Ahmar Mountains.

Travellers will normally fly to Harar from Addis Ababa, rather than drive, given the distances involved - it is an approx 12 hour journey on bumpy mountain roads - but for those travelling by road it is possible to break up the journey with a night in Awash National Park en route, which can make a pleasant overnight stay despite limited game-viewing opportunities.