CLIMBING AND TREKKING IN EAST AFRICA – where, how and why.
Part One – The Rift Valley and Trekking in Ethiopia
The Great African Rift is a set of wonderful geological features that can be seen from space. The Rift Valley connects Arabia to Ethiopia to Kenya to Tanzania, and so onwards south to Mozambique.
Fom the lands around the African Rift Valley come our ancestors, the earliest known hominids to walk the earth. To go full circle and to return there is a privilege which asks in return our respect for the many eco-systems of Africa.
Along and adjacent to this great fault line of valleys, mountains, lakes and deserts are found the best climbs and treks in Africa. Not only Kilimanjaro, but also the Simien Mountains in Ethiopia, Mt Kenya, the volcano Mt. Elgon, Mt Stanley in the Rwenzoris, Mt Meru, Mawenzi, and Ol Doinyo Lengai on the floor of the Rift Valley (see image below), and many more treks and climbs too numerous to list in this short blog!
Trekking in Ethiopia
Many years ago a trekker named Jon Rigby introduced me to what I came to call the Rigby Ridge Route. This was a superb trek right across the Simien Mountains that also took in Ethiopia’s highest peak, Ras Deshen. This 10-day trek from Debark to Chenek to Ras Deshen to Arkwasyie and down to Adi Arkay via the heavenly valley of Lamo is now a regular on several tour operators’ books. Back then in the mid Nineties this was true wilderness trekking. The Derg had just ended and we really needed the armed guards who supported us. Bags and tired trekkers were transported by mule. On a later trip I would enjoy mule races with my son Jonathan – then aged 12 years old. He became a very strong trekker even at high altitude. This Simien Mountains Trek still remains a classic wilderness trek, which may be combined with visits to parts of Ethiopia’s amazing Historic Route.
Trekking into Ethiopia’s history
Trekking in Ethiopia is not limited to the Simiens. Exploring the ancient and medieval rock churches of Tigrai and Lalibela, and other remote monuments, provides opportunities for day treks in a variety of landscapes. Tigrai boasts on average 50 weeks of sunshine. When trekking to a remote hilltop church high in the hills overlooking a vast semi-desert landscape you feel as if you really have ventured back into Biblical times. The walk to Maryam Korkor in the Gheralta region, for example, will take you to a semi-monolith church probably carved out of the rock face over 10 centuries ago. Nearby Abune Yemata is known as one of the most difficult churches in the world to reach. It involves a steep rock climb to a very exposed ridge (barefoot is mandatory!), upon which is located this beautiful but modest church.
Further south you can head down the Rift Valley to the Bale Mountains, a remote wildlife reserve, and the largest high-altitude plateau in Africa, where you may spy the Simien wolf and other rare species of fauna and flora. The Bale Mountains National Park is mainly visited by car and via short treks on foot to see the range of wildlife.
My next blog post will be about trekking and climbing in Kenya – located south of Ethiopia, this is Africa’s mecca for rock climbers, mountaineers and trekkers.
Please visit our main website for more on Ethiopia.
