Thrust into the limelight in 2010 following the release from house arrest of Aung San Suu Kyi, Myanmar has quickly entered the Asian hotspot list, despite quietly receiving many visitors for decades. Its years of isolation bestowed on Myanmar a certain mystique, and while its re-emergence may have reduced some of this mysticism, the country has lost none of its charm and character, its gentle people as shyly welcoming as ever.
Myanmar is culturally intact in a way that few other modern nations are. Wherever you look, and whatever part of the country you visit, you'll find evidence of old customs and traditions. Men wear the traditional longyi, a type of sarong; monks, in their distinctive maroon-robes, are a common sight on city streets; young women apply curious patches of white paste to their faces to protect their skin from the sun; while the red-stained teeth of the Burmese men testifies to the undiminishing popularity of the betel nut.
Yangon, formerly Rangoon, is a cosmopolitan city that attracts visitors and pilgrims from neighbouring Thailand, China and, in more recent years, from the West. Though it is no longer the capital, Yangon is still very much the heart of Burmese life and remains the country’s largest city. Its recent history is visible in the faded British colonial architecture that dominates the centre of town, but Yangon's most memorable building is the 15th-century Shwedagon Pagoda, a huge mounted temple with a golden stupa that glistens like a beacon in the sun.
Most visitors to Myanmar will include three major destinations in their itinerary: Bagan, Mandalay and Inle Lake, all of which can be visited in the course of a short holiday. Bagan is a truly remarkable site with thousands of temples scattered across its wide open plains. Mandalay, its evocative name conjuring up romantic images of a bygone Asia, is a bustling trading centre named after the famous Mandalay Hill, where locals and visitors congregate each evening to watch the sun set over the town and the Ayeyarwaddy River. Inle Lake contrasts greatly with busy Mandalay, its vast waters home to serene floating gardens and markets, and many temples and stupas.
Beyond the major sights, Myanmar is home to hill tribes, former colonial hill stations and, in the north of the country, fantastic trekking routes. And while Myanmar is not generally considered a premier beach destination, the coastline is virtually undeveloped, with vast stretches of white sand beaches lined with coconut palms. Here you will find small and stylish resorts instead of the mega-hotels associated with South East Asia. Elsewhere you can choose between modern hotels in Yangon and Mandalay, exclusive villa-style accommodation and traditional guesthouses in Bagan, luxury resorts such as the iconic Strand Hotel, and gorgeous converted colonial mansions.
MYANMAR AT A GLANCE
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Myanmar’s cool, dry season runs from November to February. This is the peak holiday season.
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The monsoon rains fall from May until October, mainly in the afternoons and evenings.
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Myanmar's beach resorts usually close in the rainy season between June and September.
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If you fancy a few days on the beach, Myanmar has some excellent small resorts at Ngapali and Ngwe Saung. Ngapali is becoming busier year-by-year, but it hasn't seen anything like the development of some of Thailand and Vietnam's major beach resorts.
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The highlights (Yangon, Inle, Bagan and Mandalay) can be visited in ten days if in a hurry, but there is so much to see so allow two weeks for your Myanmar holiday if you can.
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Those with the time should consider a visit to Kachin state in the remote north, which offers great trekking.
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Myanmar's New Year celebrations take place in April, when the heat is at its most intense. Expect a soaking as locals throw water indiscriminately during the water festival! The festivities make this a fun time to travel, but beware the intense heat (40°C is not unheard of in Bagan and Mandalay at this time of year).