Vietnam’s two major cities, the capital Hanoi and the commercial centre Saigon (officially, Ho Chi Minh City), are like chalk and cheese. Hanoi is elegant with a conservatism that contrasts starkly with Saigon’s brashness. Taken together, they represent the push and pull between modernity and tradition, and between capitalism and communism, that defines so much of Vietnamese life.

Elsewhere, on Vietnam's central coastline, Hue is grand and sedate, its imperial history the main attraction, while Hoi An is a beautifully-preserved 15th-century trading port filled with shops and narrow streets to explore. Further south, the coastal retreat of Nha Trang offers fabulous beaches and offshore islands to discover, while a short journey inland into the Central Highlands takes the traveller to Dalat, where a pleasant climate and alpine scenery offers respite from the heat and humidity of the tropical lowlands below.

Vietnam’s attractions extend beyond its lively towns and cities to its often-beautiful countryside. In the northwest of the country, overlooked by Mount Fansipan, Sapa is the starting point for journeys to explore the hill tribe villages and spectacular mountain scenery of this most remote region of the country. To the east of Hanoi, the emerald waters and forested islets of Halong Bay present a stunning spectacle; cruising through the bay on a traditional junk is an experience not to be missed! At the other end of the country, the best way to enjoy the Mekong Delta is also on a boat, passing through riverside villages where the residents make a living fishing, growing rice and fruit, or manufacturing in small, family-run factories.

Much of Vietnam's coastline is notable for its beautiful beaches, and with resorts to match, there is no longer any need to travel to Thailand to enjoy a few days on the coast. Those wanting to get away from it all can head for the islands of Phu Quoc or Con Dao, while the mainland of Vietnam has a mixture of small and large resorts to suit any budget, with the best at Nha Trang, Phan Thiet, Danang and Hoi An.

VIETNAM AT A GLANCE

• The north of Vietnam has four seasons, with the summer hot and wet, the autumn warm and mainly dry, the winter cooler and occasionally drizzly, and the spring increasingly hot and humid. The mountains in the northwest can be very cold in January and February.

• The centre of Vietnam experiences heavy rainfall from September to December, and unsettled cooler weather from January to March. From April to August, it is hot and humid.

• The south of Vietnam is tropical and experiences hot temperatures all year round, with a rainy season from May to October, during which you can expect short but heavy daily downfalls.

• Vietnam's main highlights can be visited in a week, but to get the best out of your trip allow two weeks, or longer if you can.

• The evocative Reunification Express travels slowly between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. A popular section is the overnight journey between Hanoi and Hue, taking around 15 hours. The service and accommodation is acceptable in soft class. There are deluxe carriages on certain trains from Hanoi to Lao Cai (for Sapa) and also to Hue and Danang.

• Vietnam can easily be combined with Cambodia and Laos; there is a good network of flights as well as boats between the Mekong Delta and Phnom Penh.