Ngorongoro, Mahale, Selous and Zanzibar

The Ngorongoro Conservation Area is a region steeped in history – a blend of dramatic landscapes, remarkable wildlife, people and archaeology that is unmatched in all of Africa. This is a land of highland plains, scrub bush and forests, rather than the savannah plains that we typically associate with this region of East Africa. As a protected area, only indigenous tribes such as the Maasai are allowed to settle within its boundaries.

Among the region’s standout natural landmarks are the soda lakes Masek and Ndutu, which, set against a backdrop of peaks and volcanoes, present a stunning spectacle.

Of course, Ngorongoro Crater (actually a collapsed volcano, or caldera) is the main attraction, and this afternoon you’ll have the opportunity to explore it at length as you descend down its rim for a four-hour game drive on the crater floor.

The game-viewing in the crater is truly incredible, as is the topography. Rhino, lion, elephant, zebra and wildebeest are all found within its vast area, either on the open plains at the centre of the crater or in the forests that line the rim.

After the crater tour, transfer to Plantation Lodge for dinner and overnight.

Greystoke Mahale
Greystoke Mahale is undoubtedly one of the most romantic and beautiful camps in Africa. It is located in the heart of Mahale National Park, on the shores of its eponymous lake. Here it sits on a beach as white and pristine as any to be found in the Seychelles, overlooking the shimmering waters of the lake. Behind it stretch densely wooded hills, which are home to one of Africa’s last remaining populations of wild chimpanzee.

Greystoke is a small camp, with just six beach bandas. It’s stylish but rustic in appearance—the very definition of barefoot luxury. Constructed from thatch and recycled dhow timber, the rooms are beautifully furnished and very spacious, with room enough for a large double bed, separate dressing area, upstairs viewing deck, and en-suite bathroom. Each enjoys a view of the lake.

Greystoke Mahale is run as an eco-camp and the facilities are naturally quite limited—don’t come expecting a pool, spa and gym—but then it’s the location that makes Mahale special. There’s a romantic dining pavilion on the waterfront, where superb meals are served by hosts Doug and Magdalene.

The next four days at Mahale are largely at your own leisure. There are no rigid activity schedules, as is often the case on safari—plan your days as you choose and do as much or as little as you please. The chimp visits take place in the morning, accompanied by experienced guides. Birding tours, guided walks on the beach and in the forest, dhow boat rides, and visits to the hippo pool are among the other activities available. Of course, you might prefer to just relax on the beach!

Sand Rivers Camp
Deep within the Selous Game Reserve, Sand Rivers Camp occupies an enviable location on a long peninsula overlooking a bend in the Rufiji River, where game regularly comes to drink.

Much like its sister camp, Greystoke Mahale, this is a small but perfectly formed camp, with just eight guest cottages, each of which opens at the front so as to provide a view of the river. There’s a large, cosy mess area, and a swimming pool discretely built into the rock on the river’s edge, shaded underneath a giant baobab tree.

The views of the river from the pool are impressive, and so too are the views from the thatched bar and dining area.

Evening at leisure.

The next two days will be spent exploring the Selous Game Reserve on foot, by 4x4, and by boat, accompanied by Sand Rivers’ talented wildlife guides.

Kisiwa House
A former trading hub on the spice route connecting East Africa, Arabia and India, Stone Town wears its Arabic, Portuguese and Swahili influences on its sleeves. Its narrow, winding streets and towering townhouses have remained largely unchanged for hundreds of years. You can walk between the Sultan’s Palace, the Portuguese Forts, and the merchants’ homes of the old city, and feel like you’ve stepped back in time 200 years.

One such house is Kisiwa, an old merchant’s home turned boutique hotel situated close to the harbourfront, in old Stone Town, from where it enjoys easy access to the night market, restaurants, and shopping bazaars for which Stone Town is famous.

There are 11 rooms at Kisiwa, all of them spacious and designed in a crisp, fresh style with plush interiors incorporating a blend of modern and traditional Zanzibari furnishings.

There is a delightful roof top restaurant with a view of the harbour and of Stone Town’s skyline.