Undiscovered Cambodia

In the afternoon, embark on a guided tour of the capital, taking in the Royal Palace, a curious mix of Eastern and Western design built in 1866 and still in use by the Cambodian royal family today; the Silver Pagoda, a spectacular temple complex rivalling Wat Phra Kaew in Thailand, and housing Cambodia's own Emerald Buddha; and Wat Phnom, the city's oldest shrine, dating back to 1373 (though it's been rebuilt many times since), and sited on a shady knoll towards the centre of town which always throngs with worshippers.

Early evening, enjoy a traditional Khmer massage at the Spa La Rose—the most rejuvenating way to rest after a long flight and a good day's sightseeing!

Together they provide a brutal but necessary insight into this dark era in Cambodia's long history.

Returning to Phnom Penh, stop by the Pour Un Sourire d’Enfant programme, which works to support impoverished and homeless Cambodian children by providing them with accommodation, healthcare and education. Enjoy lunch at the centre's restaurant.

To get a better feel for Cambodian culture and cuisine, this evening we'll arrange for you to enjoy a home-made dinner at the house of a local Cambodian family before you return to your hotel.

Stung Treng is a small town situated on the banks of the Mekong River, in the remote north-east of Cambodia, within the boundaries of the Virachey National Park. The town has a long and turbulent history, having been an outpost of the Khmer Empire before being incorporated into the Lao Kingdom in the 14th-century, only to later be returned to Cambodia in 1904.

This afternoon explore the town on foot and visit a local silk-weavers, where you'll learn more about silk manufacture, a traditional Cambodian industry sill practiced to this day.

In the afternoon, continue along the Mekong River to the village of Preah Rumkel. A charming riverside village, Preah Rumkel is one of the few places in Cambodia where it is still possible to see the rare Irrawaddy Dolphin. Despite this, Preah Rumkel is far from an established feature of the Cambodian tourist circuit, with no hotels and only a few home-stays. You'll stay in a local home, where this evening you'll be treated to a delicious home-cooked meal.

Once at O'Svay, you'll be reunited with your driver and continue by car approx. 3 hours to Terres Rouges, a lovely lodge situated on the banks of the Boeung Kansaing River, in Ratanakiri Province. Ratanakiri is among the most remote and beautiful of Cambodia's provinces, with stunning scenery and a variety of local cultures to discover that are distinct from Cambodia's dominant Khmer culture.

In the afternoon, after checking in to your lodge, visit Yak Laom Lake. This freshwater lake occupies a volcanic crater formed over 4,000 years ago. It's terrifyingly deep (almost 50m!), but the water is crystal clear and wonderful to swim in. Go for a swim or just enjoy a walk around the lake's forested perimeter.

The rest of the day is spent visiting the best of Ratanakiri's many sights. You'll explore a local weaving village, where you'll be able to learn more about this essential Cambodian craft; relax at Lum Kut, another beautiful volcanic lake; and explore the market and gem mines at Borkeo. In the afternoon hop aboard a river boat and cruise the Se San River, stopping to explore an abandoned Charai Hindu cemetery, where the graves have been decorated with fascinating carved effigies.

Late afternoon, return to Terres Rouges.

Kratie is a sleepy riverside town situated close to the Laos Border. Formerly a French colonial retreat, the town still retains much of its 19th-century architecture.

On arrival in Kratie, board a ferry to Koh Trong, a small island situated in the middle of the Mekong River. Koh Trong is a pleasure to explore on foot, bicycle or, if you want the authentic experience, by ox cart! There's a nine kilometre circuit trail around the island, which takes you through riverside villages, fruit groves and paddy fields. Take the time to observe the daily rituals and distinct pace of life in a traditional Cambodian village.

You'll spend the night in a local home, with dinner included. The home stay is basic, with shared facilities and no air-con, but you'll be provided with the essentials: excellent home-cooked food, clean accommodation, and the utmost attention from your charming hosts!

Later in the morning, visit Koh Trong's floating market. Afterwards, it's time to board the boat, say goodbye to Koh Trong, and head back to Kratie. You'll have a bit of time to explore Kratie, before continuing south via Chhlong to the elevated town of Sen Monorom, capital of the hilly Mondulkiri Province.

The least populous of Cambodia's provinces, Mondulkiri is a remote region dominated by hills and beautiful woodland.

Though it's the regional capital, Sen Monorom is a sleepy town, situated between high hills and centred on two lakes. It's a beautiful location, very much off-the-beaten path and somewhat difficult to access, but well worth the extra effort required to get here. Sen is surrounded by local villages and serves as a regional market hub where the local tribes meet to trade.

Accommodation in Sen Monorom is fairly limited, but there are a number of small guesthouses and hotels. Tonight you stay in an air-conditioned hotel (though you might not need it – due to its altitude, Sen Monorom can be chilly at night!)

Visit Busra, a weaving village, in the afternoon, before returning to explore Sen Monorom and its immediate surrounds, including the Maiden Breast Hill, from where you have a beautiful sunset view of the town on a clear day.

After lunch in town, you might like to spend time exploring Kompong Cham’s old colonial homes and temples before moving on. Most notable is the temple complex of Banteay Prey Nokor, at the centre of which is Wat Nokor, an 11th-century Mahayana Buddhist temple constructed with sandstone – in a similar style to the temples at Siem Reap – that has been incorporated into a more modern Theravadan shrine. Angkorian experts and enthusiasts consider this a hidden gem of Khmer art, since it receives so few visitors compared to the more famous temples at Siem Reap and Battambang.

After exploring Kompong Cham, continue on to Kompong Thom, arriving at your hotel late afternoon.

These are among the oldest sites in Cambodia, pre-dating Angkor by 400 years. They are not nearly as large in scope as the temples at Siem Reap, but they provide a fascinating insight into the development of the Khmer style.

In the afternoon, continue to Siem Reap, arriving late afternoon.

Angkor Thom, formerly the capital of the Angkor Empire, is a huge site, accessed via a grand gate and encompassing several structures, including the Bayon, Phimeanakas, and the Elephant Terrace. You'll likely recognise many of the sites immediately, notably the Bayon with its famous face towers, almost as iconic as Angkor Wat itself.

You'll have a full morning to explore Angkor Thom in the company of your guide. For lunch, you may prefer to head into town or return to your hotel in order to escape the midday heat.

Late afternoon, begin your tour of the stunning Angkor Wat. You will need 3-4 hours to explore Angkor Wat in depth. This is a site that is spectacular to look at but also one that is rich in symbolism, revealed, not just in its wall murals, but in its very layout, with the temple’s moat, concentric galleries, and five central towers thought to be a depiction of the Hindu universe. Your guide will be able to tell you more about the symbolism underpinning Angkor Wat as you explore the site at length. In the early evening, find a quiet spot to sit and watch the sun set over the temple.

Banteay Srei differs from the main Angkorian temples in several respects. It is much smaller, constructed almost entirely of pink sandstone (which is softer than the laterite and sandstone used in Angkor Wat and hence much easier to carve) and is decorated with intricate carved wall murals of a sort not seen on other Angkorian temples.

Banteay Samre receives fewer visitors than many other temples near Siem Reap, but only because of its remoteness. It's a stunning temple, remarkable for its condition (its centre has been fully restored). Its design is similar to Angkor Wat, with a long causeway leading to a central temple with towers, enclosed within two galleries. The outer walls, however, have not been restored and only the foundations are visible.

Ta Prohm is iconic. Popularly known as the 'jungle temple', it provides a good indication of how all of the temples at Angkor would have looked when they were discovered by archaeologists in the late 19th-century. Whereas extensive restoration work has been done on other temples, Ta Prohm has been intentionally left as it was discovered – in a gently decaying state, overgrown with roots and vines from the forest – giving it a romantic and mysterious air.

In the late afternoon, relax with a Khmer massage before being returned to your hotel. Evening at leisure.

If you have time this morning, you may wish to explore Siem Reap's lively morning market or enjoy an early visit to one of the temples to watch the sunrise.