Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is a blend of the traditional, colonial and modern, a city where pagodas, markets and shophouses sit easily alongside French villas and modern high rises. Many of the streets are wide, tree-lined boulevards, a legacy of the French design, but the narrow streets around the Central Market recall the chaos of Saigon or Bangkok, constantly abuzz with cars, tuk-tuks, motodups and cyclos vying for space.

Conveniently located at the confluence of three rivers—the Mekong, Tonle Sap and the Bassac—life in Phnom Penh centres on the lively waterfront, a magnet for visitors with a cluster of bars and restaurants from where you can watch life pass by on the river. A leisurely sunset cruise through the city centre is one of the best ways to experience Phnom Penh.

You will be spoilt for choice by the number of places to eat out in Phnom Penh, which cover the whole range from local, one-dish only spots to international restaurants serving sumptuous French cuisine - and everything inbetween!

In and around Phnom Penh, Cambodia
You just can’t miss the Royal Palace, a gleaming complex of traditional Khmer buildings but with a distinctly European house, donated by Napoleon III in 1876, plonked incongruously in the middle. Next door is the Silver Pagoda, which has over 5,000 silver tiles covering its floor, and which houses a number of priceless Buddhas, one covered in precious gems.

Wat Phnom marks the site where the city was founded, and the temple at the top of the small hill sees a constant flow of worshippers praying for good luck. On a clear day, the views from the top are wonderful.

Before heading to Angkor, you must visit the National Museum, which houses a comprehensive collection of Khmer artefacts detailing the development of the Angkor Kingdom. It's a substantial collection that does justice to Cambodia's long and rich history.

Shoppers will love the art deco Central Market, famous for its glittering gems (not all of them authentic, we might add). Prepare to haggle hard in the Russian Market, a complex of narrow alleyways crammed with stalls. If you still haven’t found that perfect gift, you can’t fail to find something at the riverfront night market.

The tragedy of Cambodia's recent history is brought into relief at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, a former high school turned grim prison by the Khmer Rouge. Many of the prisoners were sent to Cheong Ek, 15km from the city, one of the many killing fields around the country.

From Phnom Penh you can also visit the site of the former capital of Cambodia, Udong, abandoned in 1866 when Phnom Penh became the capital. The ruins of temples and stupas survive, though badly damaged by Khmer Rouge bombs, and are now being carefully renovated.